Each year, once the dust has settled after the effervescence of Watches & Wonders in Geneva, the quest for meaning begins: what are the trends? What is the (mainly Swiss) watch world focusing on this year? Is there a particular dial color trend? Or is there a particular complication that is popular this year? It’s like reading tea leaves to predict the future. After all, new watch releases will continue throughout the year, and some of them will be more accessible to general watch enthusiasts, unlike many of the limited-edition and very expensive new releases offered at Watches & Wonders. . That said, some trends have emerged this year.

A big trend has been the return of GMT watches. This is perhaps an indication of how, after two years of covid-19, international travel is finally on the rise again. After all, unless you live in a country like the United States, you wouldn’t need a second time zone complication. GMT watches were therefore all the rage, with new lines like Tudor, Grand Seiko, Parmigiani, Patek Philippe. Rolex gave us a left-handed version of the iconic GMT Master II.

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When you add in the spectacular Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur – not a GMT watch but a world time watch – it’s clear that travel is on people’s minds. The Tudor Black Bay Pro stands out particularly among this multitude of versions. A beautiful 39mm black dial tool watch with a steel bezel and a dazzling yellow GMT hand, it is reminiscent of sister brand Rolex’s classic 1655 Explorer II. But it’s also very distinctly Tudor, and a worthy newcomer to the Black Bay family.

The other trend, so to speak, was that unlike last year, there wasn’t a single dial color that dominated the roost. In 2021, the dominant color was green, with Breitling, Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Panerai, among others, all launching green dial watches. It’s a trend that also continued throughout the year, especially with a trio of limited-edition references from Grand Seiko. And if 2021 was all about green dials, 2020 was all about blue. Well, this year there is nothing like it. In fact, there was a riot of colors, from green to salmon to black and different shades of blue, pink and purple.

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Instead, a “trend” that caught the eye was of manufactures doubling down on their watchmaking capabilities to produce jaw-dropping designs, particularly in the vein of openworked or skeletonized cases. Take, for example, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon Ref. SLGT003, a first for Japanese manufacturing. It is equipped with a new hand-wound movement that combines a tourbillon with a crown for excellent chronometry. Set in a platinum and titanium case, it marks an evolution for the brand.

Elsewhere, Chopard’s three stunning new Full Strike minute repeaters upped the ante on the two skeleton watches as well as the minute repeater complication, often considered the queen of complications. These, along with offerings like the Tonda PF from Parmigiani, the new skeletonized Overseas from Vacheron Constantin and the openworked Chronomaster Sport from Zenith show that while mechanical watches may be an anachronism in 2022, they remain vital. These were the trends at Watches & Wonders. In the meantime, here are nine other watches that have been the talk of the town.

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Vacheron Constantin The History 222 Ref. 4200H/222J-B935: Vacheron is one of the oldest watch brands in the world with many great designs. This year, it revisits its famous sports watch from the 1970s, the 222, with the Ref. 4200H/222J-B935 . www.vacheron-constantin.com; $62,500

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Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
(Courtesy of Parmigiani)

Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Ref. PFC905-102000B-100182: In a season of GMT watches, the Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Ref. PFC905-102000B-100182 does not disappoint. The compact sizing is another plus, along with the clean, readable dial. Parmigiani.com; $28,700

Also Read: Why 2021 Has Been a Great Year for Luxury Watch Design

Rolex GMT Master II.
(Courtesy of Rolex)

Rolex GMT Master II Ref.126720VTNR: The left-handed Rolex GMT Master II Ref. 126720VTNR caused a stir with its crown and date to the left of the watch. A great example of Rolex’s progressive change philosophy. rolex.com; from $10,050

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive GMT.
(Courtesy of Grand Seiko)

Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT Ref. SBGE285: Grand Seiko has been on a roll this year, churning out some jaw-dropping timepieces (and it’s only April!) One of them is this sleek Evolution 9 Spring Drive GMT Ref. SBGE285 in titanium. Grand-seiko.com €8,500

A. Lange & Söhne Ulysses.
(Courtesy of A. Lange & Sohne)

A. Lange & Söhne Ulysses Ref. 363.117: THE. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Ref. 363.117 from the German giant is that rare thing from Lange: a titanium sports watch. The Odysseus is an exclusive boutique collection limited to only 250 pieces. www.alange-soehne.com; $56,500

Zenith Chronomaster Sport in pink gold.
(Courtesy of Zenith)

Zenith Chronomaster Sport: The classic Zenith Chronomaster Sport chronograph has been given two distinct lines, one in rose gold and one in two-tone. Featuring the classic El Primero movement, these are winners. Zenith-watches.com; $37,000 (rose gold)

Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G.
(Courtesy of Tudor Watches)

Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G Ref. M79833MN-0004: Tudor released one winner after another every year. This year, the Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G Ref. The M79833MN-0004 two-tone ‘Root Beer’ GMT is no different. Tudorwatch, com; from $4,700

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001.
(Courtesy of Patek Philippe)

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001: Patek Philippe, the biggest name in world watchmaking, has refreshed its iconic dress watch, the Calatrava, with the textured dial, luminous hands and overall sporty look of the Ref. 5226G-001 Patek.com; $39,033

Mont Blanc 1858 Minerve Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow.
(Courtesy of Mont-Blanc)

Mont Blanc 1858 Minerve Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow: Mont Blanc dates back to the 1940s for this magnificent art deco monopusher chronograph, the 1858 Minerva Red Arrow. It is a limited edition of only 88 pieces. Montblanc.com; $30,500

Handwound is a bi-monthly chronicle on watches and horology.

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