Roland Mouret and Rejina Pyo challenge convention at London Fashion Week | London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week is back, but not back to normal.
Roland Mouret, whose regular pre-pandemic fashion week tour was a parade at the National Theater, commissioned a film in which actors wore his new collection as costumes while their characters dined, danced and rode motorcycles.
Meanwhile, Rejina Pyo’s show opened with GB team athletes diving from the London Aquatic Center diving board, rather than a model walking down a track.
“I’m not going to pretend the world is like it was before,” Mouret said before the screening. “A shock of this magnitude [the pandemic] it’s like a divorce or a bereavement. It will take at least five years for society to recover, for politics to recover – and so will fashion. “
He entrusted his collection to Franco-Nigerian actor, writer and director Magaajyia Silberfeld, who used the clothes in a short film, Terma, which recast the myth of Ulysses from Hera’s perspective.
“I owe a lot of my career to the amazing women who wore my clothes, so I thought it was time for me to take a step back for a moment and see my clothes through female eyes,” said Mouret. “I am not in fashion to make objects with women. I want to be a part of fashion week but not send girls up and down a catwalk. “
European Championships silver medalist Robyn Birch, alongside fellow international divers Emily Martin and Josie Zillig, performed choreographed dives for the occasion at the start and end of Pyo’s show, dressed in swimsuits from designer bath.
“I feel like the vibe around us right now is a yearning for freedom, and the place where I feel freest is in the water,” Pyo said on a video call. before the show. “For obvious sustainability reasons, I don’t want to build a set for a show that will be taken down and thrown away the next day, so I was looking for a place that had water and also a sense of drama. The London Aquatic Center is so beautiful.
After a reconnaissance coincided with Olympic athletes using the 10-meter board for training – “It was fascinating! – she invited divers to be part of her return to London fashion week.
Terma opens with Hera, played by Silberfeld, stepping out of a taxi down a dusty Greek road wearing a sunshine yellow shirt dress that Mouret considers a new hero piece. “Post-Covid fashion is about clothes that match reality, clothes that become your best friend. Day dresses are less tight at the waist now, ”said Mouret, who became known for the stretch hourglass construction of the Galaxy dress.
Next month, it will launch Roland Mouret Body, a line of sportswear. “Covid has shown us how important sport is in maintaining a balanced mental health, for many of us.”
Mouret added that selling evening wear was always a challenge, as restrictions on events come and go in different territories. “A month ago America was opening up and they were ordering all of my party dresses. And now they have a variation and they don’t want party dresses anymore.