Collection MM6 Maison Margiela Resort 2022
MM6 is generally quite respectful of the work of its founder Martin Margiela, but for Resort 2022, the design team has found a new kind of muse in French surrealists. (To be fair, Breton, Dalí, Schiap et al. Were probably also on Martin’s moodboards, having been the first to turn shoes into hats and hair into coats.) So a bit of history first: to the late 1910s or early 1920s, depending on whose story you think, André Breton, Marcel Duchamp and a few artist friends designed a game called Cadavres Exquis. The principle is simple: fold a piece of paper into four segments, each artist draws a drawing on the first quarter and extends the lines of his work just a little after the second fold. The papers go around, the previous drawings folded up to be hidden from the new artist, until you reach the end of the sheet. The result is a collaborative illustration merging several creative styles, often somewhere between fantasy, horror, comedy and irony.
This season, the MM6 design team decided to create an Exquisite Cadavers from a collection. Each designer worked on their own ideas for a single piece, the results of which were revealed to each other when they started producing samples and styling the pieces together. The collection is a mishmash of neon orange leather motorcycle jackets and skinny pants, lined shirt dresses, cropped skirt suits and worn jeans and knitwear. It’s a bit chaotic and everywhere, but what’s wrong right now? Doing a little bit of everything looks suspiciously good for this fashion moment.
The MM6 team’s isolated way of working produced some absurd pieces, and I say it in the best possible way. There are headdresses with trompe l’oeil brown locks on the shoulders and back (wear them with the brand’s popular spring 2021 hair extension headbands). A large romantic knit represents an image taken by a telephone outside the window of the MM6 studio. The jeans are downright ginormous, swallowing the rubber-soled mary-janes and the boots underneath. And the earrings come with their own Styrofoam displays. After all the sadness and strife of 2020 and 2021, it’s nice to see a design team having fun with fashion.